An LGBTQ+ Guide for Families in Palm Springs

Years ago, my husband and I fell in love with the Greater Palm Springs area — so much so that we’ve seriously considered purchasing a place there. We travel a lot, and after our sons heard about how enchanted we were with the area, they started bugging us about when we were going to take them.

And the more we thought about all the things we loved about the area, the more we realized that the kids would love it, too. So, we decided to do a winter getaway in Palm Springs, to show the boys all that we were enchanted with.

Lodging options

For single men or couples, staying in Palm Springs often means booking one of the region’s dozen or so men-only clothing-optional resorts. For queer families, there are certainly different needs at play, although that doesn’t mean there aren’t plenty of options. We decided to try two different experiences for our visit to the area — a traditional hotel and a vacation rental home.

For the first part of our trip, we stayed at the stunning Kimpton The Rowan Palm Springs, set dramatically against the San Jacinto Mountains and right amidst all the action of the downtown strip. It’s near so much shopping and entertainment, not to mention more restaurants than you could visit in a dozen vacations.

The hotel, the tallest building downtown at seven stories, features 153 rooms and the city’s first and only rooftop pool — as well as two restaurants and two bars. Our room featured a subtle color palette of desert grays and subdued blues; huge picture windows kept the focus on the mountains and the lush palm trees surrounding the property. My husband and I (our bodies still operating on East Coast time) were able to rise early and use the expansive fitness facility while the kids slept, getting our workouts completed before tackling the day’s activities.

Dinner with a view

Dinner at the rooftop 4 Saints was memorable from start to finish. The restaurant, which opened in 2017, was relaunched in September 2021 and features classic American cooking, with a nod to California’s rich bounty of beef, seafood, and vegetables. In addition to great cocktail options like the Smells Like Tea Spirit — with a brilliant blend of mezcal and green tea — there are some nice nonalcoholic choices for the kids, like the Yuzu Fizz. Everything here, from the main courses to the sharable side dishes, was excellent, but pro tip: make sure to leave room for the Nutter Butter Bar dessert, a “heavenly choice” (my son’s words) of shortbread, chocolate, and peanut butter that both kids are still drooling over, days later.

Desert Glow

Our other lodging choice was through Poppy Vacation Rentals, which represents more than 250 properties that range from one-bedroom condos to thirteen-bedroom estates. Our property was called Desert Glow, and was conveniently located between downtown and the airport. It is a Midcentury Modern gem, with three bedrooms and two baths, and most importantly, a heated pool.

Check-in and check-out were super easy, as we were emailed the lockbox code for the key the day before we arrived. The home has everything we needed to spread out, cook, and enjoy the pool and views from the backyard. I loved being able to make most of our breakfasts and lunches at the house, avoiding the need to out three times a day, which gets very expensive very quickly for families. And the kids enjoyed the downtime, too.

Great food is everywhere in the region — we never seem to have anything but fantastic meals here. Our favorites included Kaiser Grille, for out-of-this-world steaks, seafood, and pasta, with top-notch service (and a soon-to-open glamour outdoor patio). Across the street, LULU California Bistro is a popular stop for fun brunches and has a menu with something for everyone. Grand Central has flavorful sandwiches and comfort food in the heart of Palm Springs. The kids also loved Marlin Bar, for its fun tropical vibe and great drink selection. And Jake’s in the popular Uptown Design District Guide is an intimate place that’s great for either romantic dinners or for the whole family — you certainly won’t leave hungry!

Attractions galore

After a great week in the area, here were our family’s top choices for things to do in the beautiful Coachella Valley:

Palm Springs Art Museum — I wasn’t sure how this would go over with the entire family; I knew my husband and I would enjoy it, but you never know with teens. But the kids loved the time we spent here, especially a lot of the modern art. There’s also an extensive outdoor sculpture gallery and a collection of mesmerizing glass art that really captivated both of them. They also enjoyed a section of modern art pieces that changed in appearance as you moved around them or changed your perspective. Make sure you look for the incredibly realistic indoor sculpture of the older couple sitting on a bench. All of us assumed they were real people taking a rest!

Palms to pines

Palm Springs Aerial Tramway — One of the region’s highlights, this attraction recently completed a $13 million dollar renovation project, remodeling the tram’s buildings and amenities. The large, comfortable rotating trams take about 10 minutes to ascend to the top of the mountain, gaining roughly 5,000 feet in elevation. Note that the temperatures at the top can be 20-40 degrees colder ... a reminder to layer in the winter! There are plenty of hiking trails at the top, and it feels like an entirely different place, with lush evergreens surrounding you. Plus, there are multiple overlook areas to check out, where you can take in the endless Coachella Valley extending out below.

Desert trees

Joshua Tree National Park — This easy day drive from the greater Palm Springs area is generally accessed through the northern entrance in Twentynine Palms, Calif. Come here for incredibly dark skies (and breathtaking views of the Milky Way), plenty of easy (and mostly flat) hiking, and some quite unique rock formations. Oh, and don’t forget the namesake trees, which look like something out of a Dr. Suess book. Our kids have been to more than a dozen national parks, and they agreed that this one is very different and special.

At the track

BMW Performance Center — The auto manufacturer’s western U.S. outpost is a short drive down to the southern end of the Coachella Valley in Thermal, Calif. We spent a couple of hours with instructor Byron and got to drive a variety of BMW models (z4, M2, 850, X6m) that seemed like random numbers and letters to me — but my 21-year-old son, Josh, oohed and aahed at each new model number, and filled me in on what was so special about each vehicle. Clearly, he’s the car nut, while I’m generally just asking what color it is. But it was a great way to bond and also have a lot of fun behind the wheel on BMW’s small test track. The center also offers much more advanced classes that include a “what drivers ed should be” sort of school for teens, with skid pads, car control skills, braking basics, and more. You can even get your amateur racing license here!

Famed fault

Jeep Tour to the San Andreas Fault — We finished our trip by spending a long morning with Bonnie, a lovely tour guide with Red Jeep Tours in Palm Desert. The company offers a variety of tours, some with more riding and some with more hiking. We opted for a bit of both, and Bonnie drove us around the 800-acre Metate ranch; the company has exclusive rights to this rugged land. We learned about the unique climate found here, and the impact that the San Andreas Fault has on the strange landscape. We examined myriad local plants and learned what the native peoples used them for. We walked through slot canyons and found evidence of some of the local wildlife. And we joked and told stories — and just enjoyed listening to Bonnie’s wisdom — it was a lovely end to our Palm Springs week, adding a little bit of education into the mix without the kids even realizing it!