We set out to discover Switzerland on the Glacier Express as a lesbian couple. Here’s what we found

This summer, with the Women’s EURO tournament bringing matches to cities across Switzerland, my girlfriend and I saw the perfect opportunity to trade Madrid’s sweltering heat for Alpine breezes and pristine lakes.

Travel has always been part of our relationship story. I’m American, she’s Irish, and we’ve made our home together in Madrid. The very first trip we ever took as a couple was to Switzerland, at that early stage of new love when every shared experience felt like a milestone. Returning now, a few years later, felt meaningful in a new way — still romantic, but steadier. We know each other’s travel quirks, how to keep things light on long journeys, and what makes a trip special for the two of us.

As a lesbian couple, we’re always aware of how a destination might feel for us. In Switzerland, we found nothing but ease. Our trips usually orbit around some anchor — friends to visit, a soccer tournament, a cultural event —because it gives us a way to connect with a place beyond the checklist sights. And as self-proclaimed train enthusiasts, there was no better destination — Switzerland boasts one of the most efficient, scenic, and traveler-friendly rail systems in the world.

Pack your bags, we’re going on an adventure

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To make the most of our trip (and avoid the headache of constant ticket-buying), we opted for the First Class Swiss Travel Pass — a golden ticket to the country’s unrivaled public transport network. It covers not just trains, but also buses, trams, and even select boats and mountain cable cars. With matches sprinkled across different regions, the pass made it seamless to hop between cities, alpine villages, and lakeside towns — all while riding in comfort.

The Swiss are the most frequent train travelers in Europe, averaging around 1,500 miles per person each year. And it’s easy to see why: With trains that run like clockwork, panoramic routes that double as sightseeing tours, and town centers designed with public transit in mind, it’s a dream for travelers who want to move effortlessly and luxuriously — without splurging on rental cars or private transfers.

We were lucky to experience more than just Switzerland’s commuter trains — we also boarded the Glacier Express, one of the country’s most famous rail journeys. This eight-hour ride covers 180 miles through the heart of the Alps in a single, uninterrupted route. The train connects two very different alpine destinations: Zermatt, known for its proximity to the Matterhorn, and St. Moritz, a lakeside town with a long-standing reputation for luxury and winter sports.

The route offered a cross-section of Switzerland’s landscapes — gliding through alpine valleys, over soaring viaducts, and past glassy lakes and green, rolling hills. At times, the scenery looked almost unreal, like it had been run through an Instagram filter. We joked that we’d stepped into the Windows screensaver—the hills were that green, the sky that blue. 

The First Class Swiss Travel Pass covers the Glacier Express, though a seat reservation is required. We also opted to book the onboard lunch, which turned out to be one of the best meals of our trip. As vegetarians, we were pleasantly surprised by a flavorful dal and rice dish, served alongside a fresh salad, dessert, and a perfectly pulled espresso to finish. Other menu options were available as well, making it a worthwhile upgrade no matter your dietary preference.

The train staff were truly a highlight — friendly, attentive, and always a step ahead. We treated ourselves to a few non-alcoholic drinks along the way, but to keep costs down, we brought our bottle of champagne. Our wonderful host, Fernando de León, didn’t just accommodate our thrifty move — he elevated it.

With an ice bucket, champagne flutes, and the kind of thoughtful service you hope for on vacation, he made it feel like first-class bottle service. When we asked for extra glasses to share with our fellow passengers, he happily obliged — turning a simple gesture into a moment that brightened the whole carriage. Thanks to Fernando and the rest of the crew, the journey felt just as luxurious as the views outside the window.

The journey is long — eight hours is no slight stretch — but between the multi-course meal, some light reading, photo breaks, and watching the scenery unfold, the time passes surprisingly quickly. And of course, there’s the reward of the destination.

Whether you’re heading to Zermatt, the alpine village famous for the Matterhorn — a peak so iconic it inspired Walt Disney’s Disneyland ride — or arriving in St. Moritz, where luxury meets lakeside serenity, the Glacier Express delivers more than just views.

We especially loved Zermatt, with its Matterhorn-shaped chocolates and locals casually playing the alphorn — an instrument so long it feels almost comedic if you’ve never seen one.

St. Moritz, on the other hand, is the picture of upscale alpine elegance, with spa hotels, mirrored lakes, and mountain views that make even the most seasoned travelers pause. Either way, the destination is the perfect finale to an unforgettable ride.

All in all, Switzerland is a stunning destination — and there’s no better way to experience it than by train. With a rail system so dense, efficient, and scenic, it can be hard to wrap your head around it—especially coming from the U.S., where such seamless public transit feels like a distant dream.

Around every bend, we were met with breathtaking views and warm, welcoming faces. It was the kind of trip that felt both luxurious and down-to-earth — a romantic escape we’ll never forget, made even sweeter by the fact that we pulled it off without breaking the bank. 

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