A Gay Couple’s Camper Road Trip to the Scottish Highlands | Part 1
Karl Krause SCOTLAND: We're taking you on our 12-day camper van road trip around the Scottish Highlands in the far north of the UK. From Edinburgh to Glencoe, the Isle of Skye and back to Glasgow. The post A Gay Couple’s Camper Road Trip to the Scottish Highlands | Part 1 appeared first on Gay Travel Blog - Couple of Men.
Yes, even we travel bloggers still have our travel dreams! One of them was to go on a round trip through the Scottish Highlands. But as everyday life would have it, personal wishes, such as a trip to Scotland, are often secondary. Work comes first, right? Well, not this time. We’re taking you on our camper van road trip around the Scottish Highlands in the far north of the UK with Indie Campers.
– in collaboration with Indie Campers and KLM Royal Dutch Airlines –
Our 10-day road trip around the Scottish Highlands
Spending the night together in the sheer endless and rugged Scottish landscapes, getting up with the sun (or the rain) and enjoying the here and now hand in hand… With this trip to Scotland, we fulfilled a long-cherished dream. When planning the trip, we quickly realized that the 12 days we had planned would definitely not be enough to see all the impressive things the Scottish Highlands has to offer. So, we tried to keep our ambitions realistic and focused on one part of Scotland. And this is what our road trip itinerary through the Scottish Highlands looked like: From Edinburgh via Glencoe to the Isle of Skye and on the way back via Inverness to Glasgow.
Picking up the camper van in Edinburgh
Just 10 Uber minutes from Edinburgh International Airport, we had an appointment to pick up our home on wheels from Indie Campers shortly after landing. Two friendly guys who took care of the check-in and handover of our Nomad Pop Top camper van greeted us with a big smile. Our motorhome was a so-called Fiat Ducato-Weinsberg camper van, which had a kitchen with a fridge and freezer compartment, a bathroom with shower and toilet, a bed, and a fold-out tent on the roof. We took over the motorhome with a full water tank, a full 10 kg gas bottle, the kitchen, and bed linen package, as well as two folding bikes.
Even though it seemed to be a bit chaotic, with several check-ins at the same time, the two boys had their little chaos firmly under control. And so, after a good hour of explanations, preparations, and repacking our luggage into our camper van, our journey could begin. Firstly, we had to take two minor detours on our road trip through the Scottish Highlands. The first one was for Karl to get used to driving a camper van (as we were traveling in the United Kingdom, the car naturally had left-hand drive). Secondly, of course, we had to do some grocery shopping.
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From Edinburgh into the wilderness
The summer days in Scotland are significantly longer than in parts of mainland Europe, such as the Netherlands or Germany. Being so far north in Europe, it was, therefore, still possible for us to set off into the Scottish Highlands at a slightly later hour than we anticipated. Only the search for an overnight space during a road trip to the Scottish Highlands would prove more difficult at later hours, or so we thought. Well, luckily, Scotland offers plenty of roadside overnight parking spots! Did you know that wild camping is allowed in Scotland?
“… every camper must follow a simple principle: ‘Leave no trace’. Wild camping is legal in Scotland, but there are guidelines that all campers should follow. It’s a straightforward formula: Respect nature + take care of yourself = Have fun camping!” – VisitScotland.com
This principle also applies to motorhomes and camper vans, except this can only be done in parking areas or by the roadside (not on a road, driveway, or passing bay) if clearly signposted. As darkness fell, we decided to set up camp for the night in a parking lot on a hill between Loch Lomond and the Glencoe Valley. Exhausted but happy, we snuggled together and listened to the wind whistling around our campers. We had finally arrived in Scotland.
Some important Apps for your road trip to the Scottish Highlands:
- Website/ App for overnight parking and services: https://www.searchforsites.co.uk/
- Website/ App for overnight parking and services: https://park4night.com/en
Our first day in the Glencoe Valley
After a short night in which we both got an excellent night’s sleep, it was time for breakfast in our camper. While the first hikers passed by outside, we planned for the day. At the entrance to the Glencoe Valley on our way towards the Isle of Skye, we were spoiled for choice: dozens of stops and parking lots offered us the opportunity to stop. And for good reason! Because literally after every bend, a new, indescribably beautiful view of the vast nature of the Scottish Highlands awaited us. The lush green alternating with the blue sky and splashes of color from the blooming summer plants… So beautiful. It was a truly breathtaking way to welcome us to Scotland.
First stop: Altnafeadh near Glencoe
For many, the small white cottage known as Wee White House Glencoe at the foot of the Buachaille Etive Mor mountain range basically embodies the Scottish Highlands. The famous photo spot with parking spaces directly on and next to the A82 can easily be overlooked when driving past. And yet, it is a truly magically beautiful place full of contrasts. This is also where we unpacked our drone for the first time to film ourselves and the view of the mountains from the small stream that leads to the house.
Here is the result: Instagram Reel at Lagangarbh Hut in Glencoe
We continued our road trip journey through the Scottish Highlands in a western direction. Sun and clouds alternated as we drove through the wide, almost unwooded Glencoe Valley. One bridge crossing, one tank of gas, and two popsicles later, we found ourselves in a little paradise – our home for the next two days.
Camping in Onich on Loch Linnhe
Especially with camper vans and motorhomes, it is important to familiarize yourself with the habits of the vehicle, the water and electricity consumption, and the mattress. Every now and then, you have to empty your toilet tank and refill the service water. It’s usually only possible at campsites or the very few public facilities available. Especially if you plan to camp off the beaten paths like we planned during our Scottish Highlands road trip. After all, we had everything we needed for a luxurious nature adventure in Scotland – from the bed to the kitchen and a fully equipped bathroom – with us at all times.
This was also the case at the small, private campsite, which can only accommodate five vehicles at a time and is located directly on the banks of Loch Linneh. We set up camp here for two nights. It was time to get to know the camper better, sit in the sun and take our first dip in the ice-cold water. Our trip could hardly have started better with a mix of sun and clouds.
Travel Tip for the campsite in Onich:
- Call ahead! There are only a few spots available!
- Anne is very available currently under this number: +44 (0)782 8250436
- Last-minute bookings are possible only on availability!
- Link to a campsite review page: Fort Williams – Onich >
A little tree in paradise
We filled up the drinking water, emptied the toilet tank, and stowed everything that was loose and could fly around in the caravan while driving. We waved goodbye to the horses in the paddock behind our campsite. The journey continued through the small town of Fort William, along Loch Eli, Loch Lochy, Loch Garry, Loch Loyne, and finally Loch Cluanie towards the Isle of Skye.
At the point where three small streams join to form the River Cluanie, we discovered a tree on a small hill not far from the country road while passing by. The parking bays along the way were empty, and we were gripped by the desire to explore. We parked the camper and opened the roof hatches a little to ventilate the sun’s heat. After packing our camera and drone, we found ourselves on a short hiking trail towards the small tree, dancing in the wind.
Instagram Reel: About the singing, ringing tree
From the Scottish singing, ringing, dancing tree
Luckily, we had waterproof hiking boots with us because the ground here in the Scottish Highlands is often boggy over long stretches, sometimes with invisible holes up to half a meter deep filled with water. So, every step was carefully taken to avoid washing our hiking gear right at the start of our journey. Then we stood hand in hand in front of the little tree with dry feet and our mouths wide open.
The view of the mountains surrounding us was simply phenomenal. We were stunned at how the little tree had managed to hold its space in this harsh natural environment. We settled down on the small rock, in the lee of which the little tree could probably thrive. After we released our drone into the air, we managed to get some beautiful shots of the tree, of us and the stunning landscape surrounding us. You can find the matching Instagram reel here. With a beaming smile on our faces, we settled into our camper van seats. What an incredible discovery this little tree meant to us. Such joy and happiness it caused.
Although it was early afternoon, we decided to stop for a bite to eat at our next destination.
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A castle to remember: Eilean Donan Castle
As we continued west on the A87, our excitement increased as we reached Loch Duich. Behind every bend in the road, we should see our next stop. And there it was – the famous Eilean Donan Castle – just like in a picture book, a castle in the Scottish Highlands, with the southern mountains of the Isle of Skye rising in the background. As we drove into the parking lot right in front of the castle near the Scottish town of Donnie, we started to doubt whether we should stop there.
Dozens of cars and camper vans were lined up close behind each other. But our first impression turned out to be wrong. We quickly discovered a suitable camper van parking space right in the very front row, with a view of the castle. We treated ourselves to a quick midday snack in the car with the windows open and the best view possible. After finishing our lunch snack and stowing our camera and wallet in our rucksack, we strolled along the shore to the entrance area of the castle.
It was a truly surreal sight to behold. Wow. But honestly, the building is much smaller than the numerous Hollywood films you would have believed. We curiously read about the history of this cultural heritage site in the visitor center. The fact that the castle is still privately owned and that some rooms are not open to the public was particularly interesting. Karl was so happy to be here. After all, the castle was also a film location for a James Bond movie.
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Road Trip Scottish Highlands: Where to go?
The Eilean Donan Castle is a crucial point in one’s journey when planning a road trip to the Scottish Highlands. There are three possible scenarios for travelers here: either turn north and add an NC500 round trip (NC = North Coast, 500 = 500 miles (ca. 805 km) +16 miles (ca. 26 km)) to your Scotland adventure. Or, you can drive back and try some stunning places along the way you have not visited yet. We did option three: We first continued to the Isle of Skye. And on our way back, we added a part of the famous Scottish Highland route NC500 to our itinerary. If you plan a trip to the Isle of Skye, follow the link in the next block section.
5 days on the Isle of Skye: Road trip Scottish Highlands | Part 2
Hidden beaches, home of the Scottish fairies, rock formations in the north, wild camping in the west: Read all about our camper van road trip around the world-famous Isle of Sky.
Somewhere in nowhere in Scotland
In this article, we continue north. Shortly after Donnie, the road branches off towards Inverness. Vast grasslands, dense forests, and picturesque Lochs (Loch is the Scottish Gaelic word for a loch, bay, or fjord) alternate with magnificent viewpoints. Instead of turning off to the right towards Inverness, we followed our instincts and headed northwest on the A835. Somewhere between Ullapool on the coast and Loch Glascarnoch, we set up camp for the night, with a view of the mountains, of course. Yes, as you may have already noticed, we fell in love (as expected) with the beauty of Scotland.
From the Scottish Highlands to Nessie
Before continuing our journey back to Edinburgh, we took a long walk through the countryside. Hand in hand, we wandered through the marshy landscape along the small river Abhainn Droma. Cotton grass, heather, and many other, sometimes colorful, flowering marsh plants lined the path while the sky alternated between rain clouds and sunny moments. With these beautiful memories, we set the navigation system to Loch Ness because maybe, just maybe, we were lucky enough to meet Nessie.
Bagpipe music in Drumnadrochit
But instead of heading for the city of Inverness, we decided to take the less busy Panorama route to Drumnadrochit. The small Scottish town on the western shore of Loch Ness on the A82 is considered the center of Nessie tourism. We swiftly parked our camper and strolled through the small village to listen to bagpipe music and buy a few souvenirs for the family.
The small village is also the starting point for hikes and discovery tours in the surrounding area. Popular places to stop off are Urquhart Castle and Loch Ness Viewpoint. Bye-bye, Nessie. Hello again, 007!
The last night with James Bond…
… well, in theory. But we were very close, at least with the James Bond movie “Skyfall”. It was raining cats and dogs when we arrived around 4 pm. Just in time, as in the late afternoon, all the campers are trying to find their perfect camping spot for the night. It also gave us this first great photo op with raindrops all over the camera lens. But hey, we stood at the exact spot as 007 and M. Despite the rain, the view was spectacular.
And, of course, we found THE spot for our last night in the Scottish Highlands, perfectly leveled on the rocky platform right next to the River Etive. The following day, the rain had stopped. And so, we decided to have breakfast and hike around the valley. It was then that we found out how beautiful this wild camping spot in Glen Etive actually was. Waves of sunshine mixed with dramatically dark clouds. But we had to be careful as the grass fields were swampy and very wet after last night’s heavy rain.
Midges, mosquitos, and ticks in Scotland
A must-take, though, is a midge, mosquito AND most importantly, a tick repellent. The locals use just one brand for it, which costs about £10 at any local store or gay station. But we highly recommend it, especially for the ticks who love high, juicy summer grass. The midges weren’t the most prominent issue during our trip, primarily due to the wind, but also because our camper was equipped with mosquito nets. Only the little black ones get through, usually in the late afternoon/early evening, just before sunset.
On the opposite side of the valley, several waterfalls plunge down into the valley. The largest waterfall of all was our hiking destination for the day. The view of the lush green valley was simply stunning. It really was a fitting farewell to Scotland. At the very end, we had a very special encounter. It was with two Scottish Highland cattle. So sweet, calm and incredibly cuddly. A trip to Scotland would hardly have been complete without this encounter.
But the weather wouldn’t stay sunny and dry for long, and we still had quite a way to go by car. So, we quickly waved goodbye to the highland cows and started our return trip. After all, we still had to prepare our camper for return. Tìorraidh ma-thà, Scotland. We’ll definitely see you again!
To-Do when Returning our camper van in Edinburgh
Because a successful round trip also includes the correct return of the vehicle. In addition to packing our suitcases, we had to tidy up, clean, and empty the tanks of our camper van by Indie Camper. This included:
- Removing the bed linen
- Emptying and cleaning the fridge
- Dispose of trash bags (properly)
- Emptying the toilet tank (black water)
- Empty dirty water tank (gray water) That’s the difference >
- Fill up the fuel tank (level according to takeover written in the contract)
- Clean the gas stove and sink, sweep through the van
Here is our most important tip: Please already ask about the possibility of emptying the dirt water tanks when you pick up the car. We had some trouble doing this on the way back, as we hadn’t stayed at a campsite for the last few nights of our trip. Fortunately, a few campsites allow you to empty your tank, but you have to ask around and pay a fee, which in some cases is the same amount as an overnight stay.
Once we arrived at the Indie Campers return station in Edinburgh, we returned our camper van after they took photos and emailed us all the details. Done. It’s that simple.
The final stop of our road trip around the Scottish Highlands to Glasgow for Pride
But our road trip adventure to the Scottish highlands wasn’t over just yet. We planned our trip to arrive in Glasgow on Friday in time for Pride weekend. A mild mix of sun and clouds was forecast for the actual Pride demonstration. And that’s precisely what happened. Thousands of people gathered with rainbow flags and protest posters for a demonstration march through the city that lasted several hours. You can find the pictures in our blog article about Glasgow Pride.
Our experiences in Glasgow and the Scottish Highlands have been overwhelmingly positive. Holding hands in public, kissing at a scenic overlook, or comfortably checking into our hotels as a couple, we encountered no difficulties. We enjoyed our gay adventure in Scotland to the fullest. Nevertheless, please remember that our experiences are meant to be ideas and inspirations for your LGBTQ+ friendly vacation. While we can’t guarantee your experiences will be identical, we have carefully researched and documented our authentic experiences and opinions in this article with our photos and videos.
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We would especially like to thank KLM Royal Dutch Airlines and Indie Campers for the invitation, the support, and the opportunity to experience Scotland in an accessible and authentic way.
Would you like to learn more about us gay travel bloggers and experience our queer adventures together with us? Then stay tuned and follow us on Facebook, Threads, X, YouTube, Pinterest, and Instagram! See you in Scotland, the UK, or on our next Gay Pride trips worldwide!
Karl & Daan.
The post A Gay Couple’s Camper Road Trip to the Scottish Highlands | Part 1 appeared first on Gay Travel Blog - Couple of Men.
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