Double rainbow in the desert: Inside La Copine, Joshua Tree’s favorite queer-owned restaurant
"Everything that has happened has been a reflection of our love."
Mark
“Roots” might not be the first word that comes to mind when you think of the dry desert and surreal skies of Joshua Tree.
But it’s where Nikki Hill and Claire Wadsworth, owners of the High Desert’s cult-favorite restaurant La Copine, planted theirs more than a decade ago — and it’s working out pretty well for them!
Located on the inspired street of Old Woman Springs Road near Pioneertown, their roadside-diner-with-frills, which seats less than 50, specializes in both highway faves (see the Red Eye Ribs and B-E-C) and upscale and imaginative dishes mirroring the desert’s contrasting landscape like Ceviche, Steak au Poivre, and even Mushroom Banh Mi.
Over the years, La Copine has made fans out of celebrities like Patti Smith, Cara Delveigne, and Natasha Lyonne, inspired a cookbook that was released earlier this year, and become a staple of an eclectic community that has long enchanted both straight and queer travelers looking to harness some desert magic.
As both a couple and business partners, the pair’s Joshua Tree journey seems written in the stars. Or, at least technically speaking, the sky.
After meeting at a house party in Philadelphia, a chance trip to housesit in California led them to the storied national park on Earth Day, where a double rainbow gave them the green light to pursue a nearby restaurant for sale.
According to their website, one month later, they relocated, “and the rest is herstory.”
Still, every foodie knows a perfect recipe is often not a simple one, and the charms of La Copine have as much to do with its menu and decor as the women behind the scenes.
There’s even a built-in soundtrack in the form of Wadsworth’s music as C’est Claire, inspired by her partner, the town, and the restaurant, and showcased on Songs of La Copine. (Watch out for the tearjerking “Vows,” a tune that doubled as Wadworth’s actual vows at their 2015 wedding.)
Of course, neither could imagine their cross-country move would’ve landed them at the helm of an award-winning restaurant lauded by Los Angeles Times and The New York Times, a designation as one of Eater’s 38 essential restaurants of California, and in-the-know status as a must-stop dining destination in The Golden State.
“We had no idea what it would become,” they told GayCities. “Everything that has happened has been a reflection of our love.”
Below, Claire and Nikki opened up about the origins of La Copine, working together, and living in their queer desert oasis.
Where did the name “La Copine” come from?
We knew we wanted the name to be French, because Nikki’s culinary training was from Le Cordon Bleu and Claire performs under the name C’est Claire, a common French phrase meaning “it is clear.” While deciding on the name and listening to our favorite band, Devotchka — Russian for girl — we looked up the French slang word for “girlfriend” and found “LaCopine.” The root of the word, Le Copain (co-pain “with-bread”), is someone you break bread with. We knew the name would have a lot of meaning for us, but it could also be a way to let people know we were a couple, because in the beginning we were cooking in peoples’ homes and we wanted to make sure we were welcome.
What’s your favorite part about working with your partner?
We have learned so much about each other and are still learning new things every day! It is a full collaboration.
More than 11 years and a cookbook in, did you expect you’d be celebrating such big milestones when you first embarked on this adventure?
We had no idea what it would become. We were so young and present with each other, living in the moment, and knowing we just wanted to spend more time together. Everything that has happened has been a reflection of our love.
Did building community, especially with queer folks, around the restaurant come naturally or was that something you found over time?
It grew brick by brick. We started with one friend who helped us build our vision and it quickly became an entire village. All walks of life, every age, and the most creative people we know.
What’s something unexpected you’ve discovered about each other working together?
We both see things from different lenses and perspectives, so it feels like we cover a very full picture and that the sum is greater than the parts. Neither of us could do it without the other. La Copine is truly a culmination of both of us equally. Claire always has the big vision in her mind and Nikki is focused on the day to day execution.
Is there a queer scene in Joshua Tree? What’s it like?
The communities in and around the Joshua Tree area are inherently queer. So many people here choose to live expanded, colorful, out-loud lives. There are so many incredible artists, musicians, environmentalists, designers, curators, astrologers, witches, scientists, ufologists, ramblers, and people who love to gather, cook together, and celebrate life. It isn’t so much a scene as you would see in the city or at the club… it’s more like a house party and everyone is welcome.
And of course! What are some of your favorite dishes at La Copine?
We always order the Fried Eggplant, Beets, and Claire has a mug of whichever soup is on every day. We crave the fish/seafood dishes (Shrimp Roll, Ceviche, Mussels, and our latest Sole Meunière) which surprises people. They say, “Fish, in the desert?” And we ask, “Do you eat Alaskan salmon in Chicago?” Typically, we order the newer dishes as we change menus to make sure everything is hitting all the notes.
Next time you are at La Copine, order what you are craving in that moment and go crazy, because you are here and you came all this way!
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