Midwestern oasis: How this legendary resort keeps the party going… and going

There are few greater joys in life than strutting around in a Speedo.

In my skimpy swimwear, I feel unstoppable, my confidence growing with each poolside libation.

Luckily for me, that’s how I enjoyed a recent weekend at the legendary Dunes Resort in Douglas, Michigan.

Once shipbuilding and lumber towns, Saugatuck/Douglas is a beloved vacation destination for Chicago’s gay community. Nestled along the eastern shores of Lake Michigan, the area is known as Michigan’s Art Coast, and has long attracted bohemian types. In 1910, the Ox-Bow School of Art, which is still active today, was established in Saugatuck. By the mid-20th century, eclectic city dwellers began summering among the region’s vivid landscapes of dunes and natural beauty.

But that doesn’t mean the newcomers were embraced. Queer people faced discrimination in town, and if they were served, it was with a sneer. In 1981, two local bartenders purchased an old motel along the Blue Star Highway, securing a liquor license before the Douglas city council could figure out they intended to refashion the space as a vacation refuge.

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Forty-five years later, The Dunes Resort of today looks nothing like the original Amity Motel. With more than 80 modern rooms and private cottages, it’s one of the largest LGBTQ+ resorts in the country. The property’s vast front porch and rainbow deck chairs stand out like a beacon of queer light, signaling that people of all stripes are welcome.

Out back, the pool is bumping, filled with those looking to make lasting memories.

Mike Jones, who worked at The Dunes before purchasing the property with two friends in 1999, worries that young people may not see the value in such a gay-specific space. “They take for granted a lot of the liberties that they have now,” he said. “But you get them here, and it’s like, ‘I didn’t know places like this exist.'”

Related: Saugatuck / Douglas

While one can wear a Speedo anywhere, after a fun-filled weekend frolicking with my own kind, I can say the feeling just hits different at The Dunes.

An accessible getaway

The New York Times has described Saugatuck as the “Fire Island of the Midwest.” But with all due respect to the Gray Lady, I disagree. Though Fire Island is a legendary vacation spot, it can seem inaccessible to those without six packs or six-figure salaries.

Meanwhile, Saugatuck/Douglas is unpretentious. Within drivable distance from most major cities in the Midwest, it’s an easy and approachable getaway.

My friends and I drove 2.5 hours from Chicago and met people from all over the country, though there was an expected Midwestern tilt: St. Louis, Missouri; South Bend, Indiana; Columbus, Ohio. Vacationers spanned all ages, body types, and gender identities.

Growing up in Boston, I used to think that gay scenes only existed on the coasts. A weekend at The Dunes would disabuse any coastal elite of that notion. The vibe is summer camp, and everybody wants to mingle.

“I love that it’s this little oasis,” said Zachary from Grand Rapids, who makes the 45-minute drive down almost every summer weekend.

Pulling up to The Dunes, it’s easy to leave your inhibitions at the car door. The check-in desk is next to a giant bar and dance floor, and the walls are adorned with extravagant paintings of chiseled men in harnesses.

Upstairs in the main building, there’s a stage for cabaret–we enjoyed a hilariously raunchy show hosted by Dextaci–and there’s another spacious dance floor outside. Parties and events, including a lively Sunday tea dance, happen every summer weekend.

But for those seeking a quieter trip, Saugatuck/Douglas offers that, too. The art coast’s charming downtowns are just a short walk or drive away.

What to do

A town of 1,427 full-time residents, Douglas’ main strip is roughly a mile from The Dunes. Adorned with rainbow flags, Center Street has several cute cafes and restaurants. Personal favorites include Wild Dog, where four-legged friends are welcome, as well as Everyday People Cafe, which has outdoor seating and live jazz.

On our first night, we enjoyed small plates and craft cocktails on Borrowed Time’s lovely patio. For us Chicagoans, the prices were downright delectable: most drinks are $10-$12.

About a mile north of Douglas lies Saugatuck (the full-time population is 900), where rainbow crosswalks line charming streets. With dozens of gay-owned and gay-friendly businesses, the town’s conservative leanings are in its distant past.

Since Saugatuck is located on the western end of the Eastern time zone, the sun doesn’t set until 10:00 p.m. during peak season. That leaves plenty of time to enjoy the town and take sunset pics on the docks overlooking the Kalamazoo River. Golden hour lasts all night long.

On Saturday, we called Saugatuck’s Interurban Transit, and for the low price of $5 per person, a bus showed up to The Dunes and drove us into town. We stopped at the divey Sand Bar Saloon and the more modern Noble Twist, where a very kind bartender offered us to-go drinks.

For dinner, The Butler has riverfront views, and Phil’s Bar & Grille serves homey fare with a culinary bent. We loved our meal at Singapore Room, named after a nearby ghost town that was swallowed by Lake Michigan’s famous sand dunes.

At Singapore Room, we indulged in shareable modern Asian bites and sushi, as well as espresso martinis. We enjoyed dinner under the dining room’s moody red lining.

For nonalcoholic pick-me-ups, Uncommon Grounds Coffeehouse is a delightful spot. On the topic of treats, Kilwin’s Ice Cream Parlor offers the perfect sweet ending and a wide variety of flavors. I enjoyed their blueberry waffle cone.

With a proud artistic history, Saugatuck’s Butler and Culver Streets–the two main drags–are lined with contemporary galleries. Oval Beach, with its sweeping dunes and golden sand, offers plenty of creative inspiration. The beach is about a 15-minute drive from The Dunes, and is located down a sandy trail.

“A place where anybody can be themselves”

The Dunes was founded so people in surrounding areas could vacation as their true selves. With nearby conservative states rolling back rights and protections, that mission statement remains vital.

“What I enjoy most about Saugatuck is that it’s a place where anybody can be themselves,” said Gregory from Chicago, a Dunes regular. “You see people; they’re from other areas of the Midwest: Ohio, Indiana. Missouri, Michigan. They may not have that outlet. It’s really nice to be around.”

When Jones and his pals first purchased The Dunes, they naively thought, “How hard could this be?” The answer is, very! Running a resort full-time is hard work — when we spoke, Jones was filling in as a housekeeper — and keeping up with changing tastes isn’t easy.

Younger gays in particular are a challenge. They grew up in an era with legal protections and equal rights, and can generally blend in with the crowd.

But sometimes, I want to do more than just blend in. Sometimes, I want to don my favorite pink Speedo and flirt with guys by the pool, and then make out with my bf on the dance floor. The Dunes offers a space for that.

My friends and I are very grateful.

“There’s nothing better than running into someone who’s never been here before, and they just came up and say, ‘Thank you, this place is amazing. I’m so glad it’s here,'” said Jones. “Maybe The Dunes will last another 50 years, because there are new people coming in.”

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