This Texas city makes a surprisingly dreamy LGBTQ+ couples’ getaway

Close your eyes and imagine sipping a cocktail, holding your partner’s hand, and walking along a riverbank flanked by old cypress trees and historic buildings capped with gargoyles in a city that’s LGBTQ+ friendly to boot.

Now imagine the surprise on your face when I tell you that you can experience that very seemingly European moment in San Antonio, Texas, of all places.

You read that right. San Antonio, established more than 300 years ago in South Central Texas, is home to a rich history, deep culture, and a relatively blue dot in the middle of an otherwise red state.

My previous experiences in Texas have generally been fraught with negative views toward outsiders, but my partner and I were welcomed to San Antonio with nothing but open arms from everyone we crossed paths with.

If you’re looking for a dreamy, walkable, food-filled getaway that feels like you’ve stepped outside of the US than you might expect, San Antonio deserves a real spot on your list.

Pack your bags, we’re going on an adventure

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What to do

A trip to San Antonio isn’t complete without a stop at The Alamo. My first exposure to this monument was from watching Pee-wee’s Big Adventure, but it was interesting to walk through the mission’s grounds and even see Pee-wee’s bike while we were there!

We also learned more about the city’s downtown architecture, celebrity connections, and history during a Go Rio San Antonio River Cruise. It’s touristy, for sure, but it’s one of those touristy things that’s actually worth doing.

One of our favorite ways to see the city, though, was on a super fun e-bike mural tour with our guide, Annette, who helped us get a better sense of San Antonio’s arts and culture beyond the River Walk.

Another must-see spot is the Pearl district, named after the storied Pearl Brewery that sits at the heart of the neighborhood next to Hotel Emma. Stop into the hotel bar and ask about “The Three Emmas,” then consider ordering the cocktail of the same name.

Where to eat and drink

Tex-Mex and Mexican food were, appropriately, common themes throughout our visit. Our go-to for breakfast tacos, where we went every day, was Plantaqueria, a woman-owned, plant-based restaurant. Led by Sofia Maria Renteria, the business first started from her home at the end of 2020 before becoming the local favorite it is today. Her recipes are flavorful, thoughtful, and modified from the traditional meat-heavy dishes she grew up eating. You can taste the authenticity in each bite.

One of our favorite meals, however, was at Pharm Table, a woman-owned restaurant where chef-owner Elizabeth Johnson served us one of the most beautiful and delicious meals we’ve had, including podi dosa, tandoori sweet potato, and a camote chocolate brownie for dessert. Johnson’s mission is for folks to leave feeling better than they came, and she was successful with us.

With our free time, my partner and I enjoy going to breweries, and San Antonio didn’t disappoint there, either. Just north of downtown, there’s an easy brewery crawl that includes Roadmap Brewing Co., Idle Beer Hall & Brewery, and Back Unturned Brewing Co. Idle was especially unique thanks to its huge outdoor space and access to Make Ready Market, where you can order food to bring in and eat while you drink.

Switching it up from fermented grains to fermented grapes, we also had the pleasure of tasting wine at Re:Rooted 210 Urban Winery in Hemisfair. The woman-owned and community-focused winery has a welcome-to-all atmosphere, a unique kegged wine system, and tasting events that often feature wines produced by people from marginalized groups. Their Re:Told Storytelling event this June, for example, features LGBTQ+ owned wine brands and benefits Thrive Youth Center, which supports LGBTQ+ young adults experiencing homelessness in San Antonio.

Where to find the queer scene

This wouldn’t be an LGBTQ+ guide without mentioning the queer culture. San Antonio has a “gay strip,” marked by rainbow sidewalks, where the bulk of the gay bars are located, and one of our tour guides and local San Antonian, Melvin, gave us the tea on where to go.

His advice happened to match what we did our first night in town: start at Pegasus, locally referred to as “The Peg,” for drinks; go to WKND to dance; then cap the night at Heat if you’re looking for an extra late night. Melvin also gave an honorary mention to The Eagle SA, which shares a location inside Knockout sports bar. For drag brunch goers, Ay Que Chula is the vibe, while Let’s Be Honest is a popular sapphic spot with a big outdoor patio and an dance floor inside.

We also had the pleasure of experiencing Visit San Antonio‘s Pride River Parade San Antonio, one of the most unique Pride celebrations I’ve ever attended. The river barges were converted into floats and paraded down the river while spectators watched drag performances and music acts at the amphitheater as the boats passed through. While the river parade typically kicks off Pride festivities, the city also has a more traditional parade toward the end of June.

After the Pride River Parade celebrations ended a little early due to the San Antonio Spurs qualifying for the NBA Finals, we couldn’t get an Uber back to the gayborhood, but we learned of a queer-owned bar-slash-speakeasy called Pink Shark located downtown. We ended up dancing the night away to a DJ playing hit after hit, and we even ran into the parade emcee, Lyn-Z Andrews, so you know it’s a spot local insiders go.

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Where to stay and wander

We stayed at the beautiful Kimpton Santo, located just south of La Villita and west of Hemisfair. Coming from a still-cooler Chicago, we couldn’t pass up the opportunity to take in some rays at the hotel’s rooftop pool, which features cozy cabanas and a great view of the city.

The San Antonio Botanical Garden was also not to be missed. If you only go for the Palm, Fern, and Desert rooms, it’s worth it, but the garden grounds are expansive, and there’s something unique to see around every corner.

We even got up to some shopping. La Villita was full of shops selling Southwestern and Mexican handcrafted items, jewelry, clothes, and other local goods. I’d be remiss not to tell y’all about Rollfast Ranchwear, the Western clothing store we stopped in, as well. We each got bandanas and had a great chat with the owner, Ben, about how the city’s inclusivity was a factor in him, his wife, and their kids putting down roots there for the time being.

Give Texas, or at least San Antonio, a chance

While many folks are quick to avoid visiting states like Florida or Texas, both of which have strong histories of anti-LGBTQ+ laws, it’s important to remember that queer and queer-friendly folks still live in those places. Many of them even own and operate businesses worth visiting and supporting despite the rest of the state’s politics.

San Antonio is definitely one of those places. I haven’t stopped thinking about the time we had while visiting and have already recommended it to everyone I’ve told, which now includes whoever may be reading this.

If you’re looking for a European-style getaway that doesn’t require a long flight or the need for a passport, San Antonio is certainly a destination worth checking out.

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