How a gay East Coaster fell in love with Milwaukee–a lively city steeped in history
As a gay-friendly city, Milwaukee is not to be slept on.
Mark
It’s not every day that you get upgraded to sit front row at an eight-time Grammy winner’s concert.
But that’s exactly what happened when my fiancé, a good friend, and I strolled into Milwaukee‘s Fiserv Forum about 10 minutes before Kacey Musgraves took the stage in mid-September for her “Middle of Nowhere” tour.
While we were making our way towards our seats, one of the venue’s ushers stopped us.
“Where are you guys sitting? I love your vibe!” she said excitedly. “Here, take these!”
With my fiancé dressed in a kitschy Marlboro-themed zip-up, we assume this well-meaning usher used “vibe” as a stand-in for “gay.”
Pack your bags, we’re going on an adventure
Subscribe to our weekly newsletter for the best LGBTQ+ travel guides, stories, and more.
Subscribe to our Newsletter today
That was perfectly fine with us.
The warm welcome we received at the Fiserv Forum, a venue that seats up to 18,000 people, encapsulates Milwaukee’s charm.
A Midwest newcomer from Massachusetts, I’ve visited the eclectic lakeside city three times this year, and consider it my go-to overnight spot. Friendly faces and queer acceptance are part of Milwaukee’s fabric, just like progressive politics and Bloody Marys piled high with bacon and sausage links.
An accessible getaway
Living in Chicago, getting out of the city is difficult. That’s why I’m grateful for easy getaways, like the queer oasis Saugatuck in Michigan.
Just a 90-minute drive away, Milwaukee certainly qualifies. I recommend staying Downtown, where nearly all of the Cream City’s charming neighborhoods are a short walk or car ride away (seriously, nothing is further than a 12-minute drive).
Filled with Neo-Gothic high rises, Milwaukee’s downtown serves as a standing testament to our nation’s historic architectural greatness. Many of the buildings were erected between the late 1800s and 1930s.
This past spring, my fiancé and I stayed at the Pfister Hotel, which has hosted every sitting president since William McKinley. While the ornate, 300-room property is pricey, I took advantage of a springtime deal. If you snag a room, enjoy a martini and panoramic views of the skyline and Lake Michigan at Blu on the 23rd floor.
Other hotels Downtown include the Aloft and the Saint Kate Arts Hotel, which is located on the River Walk. The Iron Horse Hotel is a chic property in Walker’s Point, the city’s gayborhood.
Speaking of which, the gay scene in Milwaukee is diverse and lively.
Related
Midwestern oasis: How this legendary resort keeps the party going… and going
The Dunes Resort in Saugatuck, Michigan is a place where anybody can be themselves.
Easy fun
Chicagoans often refer to Milwaukee as Chicago’s “little brother,” and the gay scene fits that description. Believe me, that’s not an insult. Milwaukee imbues similarly neighborhoody vibes.
Located south of Downtown, Walker’s Point is six blocks of large brick structures and Victorian worker’s cottages, with many of the bars clustered on South 2nd Street.
For a city of 560,000, Milwaukee has a healthy selection of queer watering holes. One of the few lesbian bars in the country, Walker’s Pint is a classic dive spot, with a mishmash of signs and posters decorating the walls and bartop. D.I.X. offers a laidback and dancing mix: the front room has a bar and the back room has a small stage. The crowd is inclusive, with patrons of all genders, races and body types.
Located in a commercial building from the 1800s, the setting is very Milwaukee: a little gritty, and a lot of fun.
Other favorites include Fluid, Kruz Bar and LeCage NiteClub. LeCage has jello shot boys–along with suspended platforms where people can climb up and dance. During my visit, there was a pit of gyrating twinks.
Eating and drinking well
When describing Milwaukee’s food and drink scene, it’s best to put it this way: Bloody Mary’s are likely to come piled high with dairy and sodium-filled accoutrements–and always with a beer chaser. The home of Miller Brewing Company and Pabst Brewery, Milwaukee lives up to its reputation as a great drinking city.
But don’t just think Milwaukee is only about glorious gluttony. The city is blessed with lively eateries serving elevated noshes with local ingredients. That includes coffee: Colectivo is an institution.
During our visit this past spring, my fiancé and I enjoyed small plates at Odd Duck in Walker’s Point before strolling over to the bars. As late diners, we were pleased to see the restaurant bustling at 9:00 p.m. The chili crisp deviled eggs were a favorite.
Outside of Walker’s Point, Bayview has a funky and bohemian vibe. The lakeside neighborhood features a bevy of charming restaurants and bars, and is considered Milwaukee’s hippest spot. On a separate trip this summer, my dear friend and I enjoyed dinner at Goodkind (the spicy crab pasta was delectable) and capped off our evening with frozen cocktails on the patio of AtRandom, one of Bayview’s quirky tiki bars and lounges. It was the perfect way to commemorate my recent engagement!
On the topic of libations, don’t miss Bryant’s Cocktail Lounge, open since 1938. Located on a quiet street corner, Milwaukee’s original cocktail bar has a dark, velvet-clad interior and no menu. Just settle in, tell the bartender your preferences, and watch them work.
For those who don’t want to settle on a single place to eat, don’t worry: Milwaukee Public Market is a state-of-the-art space with nearly 20 vendors and high-end grocers.
A special place
When I moved to the Midwest, one of my travel goals was to experience cities that get overlooked on the coasts. Too often, these Midwestern and Rust Belt towns get characterized as post-industrial wastelands.
But spend a night in any of them, and you’ll see the folly of that ignorance. These cities are filled with history and culture.
With the Brewers in the MLB playoffs, one of Milwaukee’s most beloved institutions is on the national stage. Brewers memorabilia is ubiquitous throughout the city. That’s especially the case in Story Hill, the historic neighborhood within walking distance of Miller Park. There, Brewers flags adorn cozy bungalows and stately homes.
As the birthplace of sewer socialism, Milwaukee has a collective feel. Through the mid-20th century, the city’s socialist leaders set out on building out infrastructure for the greater good. They succeeded, improving sanitation and services and leaving behind a world class public park system.
Today, Milwaukee holds that legacy proud. It’s been a fitting backdrop for special celebrations I’ve enjoyed this year with special people.
I can’t wait to plan my return trip in 2027. Hopefully we’ll be celebrating a Brewers championship.
Related
Philadelphia churns out some serious brotherly love — and then some!
My husband and I are eager to return to Philadelphia, as we found the city so approachable, walkable, and a bit like a less pretentious New York City.
Join the GayCities newsletter for weekly updates on the best LGBTQ+ destinations and events—nearby and around the world.
