This gay-friendly remote island is the Caribbean’s best-kept secret

Vieques, a remote island off the coast of Puerto Rico, beckons travelers who seek an authentic Boricuan experience. With its pristine beaches, crystal clear waters, and unique blend of history and culture, Vieques is a hidden gem just waiting to be uncovered.

When you set foot on Vieques, you’ll immediately feel the authenticity oozing from every corner. This island has a way of making you feel like you’ve uncovered a secret, a hidden treasure only shared among those lucky enough to stumble upon it. Forget about the crowded beaches and tourist traps too often found in other tropical destinations – Vieques is for those who crave adventure off the beaten path and the thrill of discovery.

A trip to Vieques makes a nice addition to a vacation in San Juan. Only accessible from mainland Puerto Rico, Vieques is a short 20-minute flight by charter plane or a slightly longer ferry ride from Fajardo that terminates in Isabel Segunda.

This quaint coastal town on the north side of the island embodies the true essence of Vieques. Take a stroll through Isabel Segunda’s cobblestone streets, and encounter colorful pueblo buildings, friendly locals, and a sense of community that’s hard to find elsewhere, even on mainland Puerto Rico.

Staying at Casa de Amistad – Vieques’ gay guesthouse

Casa de Amistad is a stylish, 8-room guesthouse in Isabel Segunda and makes a great little launch pad for everything the island has to offer. This “straight-friendly” gay-owned guesthouse is tucked away in a quiet residential neighborhood, but it’s within walking distance from the beach, multiple markets, restaurants, and bars.

When you’re not out and about exploring the abundant natural beauty of Vieques, take a dip in Casa’s pool or lounge on its deck. At golden hour, its rooftop terrace has an incredible view of the sunset.

Guests can hire a private chef during their stay, local Viequense cook, musician, and artist Victor Maldonado. Of course, you can cook for yourself in Casa’s well-appointed, communal kitchen, but you’d be missing out on Victor’s delicious empanadas.

The owners, married couple John Holden and Mike Lonardo, will ensure your stay is as comfortable as possible, tailoring everything to your specific needs.

They are also heavily involved with the Aventura Vieques, an island-wide, weekend-long gay festival in October that draws hundreds of LGBTQ+ travelers every year. Casa de Amistad is THE place to stay during this event.

Top 5 must-do experiences in Vieques

There are so many incredible, once-in-a-lifetime experiences to cross off your bucket list while visiting Vieques. From its bioluminescent bay, the brightest on Earth, to horseback riding on picturesque black sand beaches, you’ll find many ways to feed your inner adventurist.

Isabel Segunda and the southern town of Esperanza are very walkable, but the rest of Vieques is not. To get to the experiences listed below, you’ll need to rent a car – ideally, one with off-roading capabilities.

You’ll quickly understand why as you drive through Vieques’ scenic, rural landscape, following unpaved roads through groves of mangroves, dodging wild horses charging in the oncoming lane. The journey is almost as thrilling as the destination itself.

1) Fun in the sun at the Caribbean’s most beautiful beaches

Vieques is home to some of the most gorgeous beaches in the Caribbean. While there aren’t official “gay beaches” or clothing-optional beaches on the island, it is not uncommon to have one of these beaches entirely to yourself:

• Esperanza Beach
• Playa Negra (Black Sand Beach)
• Sun Bay Beach
• Caracas Beach
• Playa La Chiva

There are dozens of secret, unnamed beaches and coves to uncover along the coast, as well.

2) Kayaking at night on bioluminescent waters in Mosquito Bay

Of all the activities on Isla de Vieques, this one is not to be missed. Mosquito Bay is the brightest bioluminescent bay in the entire world, and it’s best to visit at night.

You’ll be hypnotized by the glowing, magical waters below, but don’t forget to look up, too! Mosquito Bay and the surrounding area have almost zero light pollution, giving you an unreal view of the Milky Way Galaxy in the night sky above.

3) Horseback riding on the beach and through the countryside

Saddle up and take an exciting ride along the beach on Paso Fino horses, native to Vieques. Esperanza Riding Company will guide you through Vieques’ rolling hills and tranquil shores, showing you the sights and sounds that can only be experienced on this special island in the Caribbean.

4) Snorkeling with sea turtles in crystal clear waters

Since Vieques is not as heavily trafficked as other tropical destinations, its coral reefs are pristine. Snorkeling is a fun and easy way to get up close and personal with Vieques’ abundant marine wildlife.

We recommend booking a snorkeling excursion with Crystal Clear Vieques, an eco-tourism company that provides snorkeling tours and classes for those interested in learning more about sustainability.

5) Feel some cleavage at El Hombre de Puerto Ferro

Nicknamed “Vieques Stonehenge,” El Hombre de Puerto Ferro is one of the most peculiar and important geological formations on the island. No one really knows the true origin of these boulders. Some say the indigenous Taino people placed these 20-foot tall granite boulders here as wayfinders.

Notably, in 1990, archaeologists Yvonne Narganes and Louis Chanlatte unearthed human remains from the center of this stone formation, adding to its mystery.

Look for the sign that reads “Hombre de Puerto Ferro” along the highway. The sacred site lies half a mile from the entrance to the Sun Bay Resort.

Bonus: Take in the view from Mosquito Pier

Many locals will tell you, no trip to Vieques is complete without a visit to the pier.

On a clear day, Mosquito Pier has a stunning view of the US Virgin Islands, Culebra (another municipality of Puerto Rico), and the mainland.

Make a small 10-minute detour somewhere along the line. You’ll surely pass by this pier a few times during your trip (Vieques is pretty small).

¡Buen Provecho! How to eat and drink ‘boricua’ style

At first glance, the island’s culinary scene may seem unassuming, but when it comes to good food, Vieques is a goldmine. This island has many eateries that highlight the traditional flavors of Puerto Rico, a melange of Taino, African, and Spanish cultures.

For some of the best “comida criolla” in town, make your way to El Plaza, a charming little spot near Casa de Amistad. Chef and owner Carlos Perez breathes new life into traditional plates, like carne frita and tostones, with his menu of approachable, healthy food.

If you’re in the mood for some down-home Puerto Rican fare, visit Rincon del Sabor, a food truck enclave just outside Isabel Segunda, and try the best mofongo in town. This addictive Puerto Rican dish, made from mashed green plantains, goes great alongside seafood or steak. Make sure you ask the aunties behind the counter for extra “criolla” sauce on the side. Trust.

Now, let’s talk about beverages. Rum is the name of the game here.

You can’t visit Vieques without trying a piña colada at Crab Island Distillery. This locally-owned boutique distillery and bar has a delicious take on Puerto Rico’s signature cocktail, perfectly blended with rum distilled and aged on-site. Its menu of craft cocktails also showcases other rum classics, like mojitos, daiquiris, and mai tais.

Vieques is a truly heavenly place where nature and culture intertwine in the most enchanting way. Don’t be surprised if you find yourself dancing to the beats of salsa music under a starry Caribbean sky. This quiet island will embrace you with open arms, inviting you to experience life to the fullest. You may never want to leave.

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